¶ When replacing loopers, first remove work clamp plates and throat plate (12, Fig. 4), then place wrench on pattern wheel clamping nut(S5, Fig. 9) and turn until stop lever operating plate(Z5, Fig. 9) rides on the pattern wheel ring(R5, Fig. 9), allowing the machine to be turned by hand. ¶Place non-threaded looper(V8, Fig. 14) on seat of looper rocker(U8, Fig. 14) and turn machine until the needle bar, after descending to its lowest point, has risen so that the lower timing mark on needle bar is even with top of top needle bar bushing, and the point of the non-threaded looper has advanced to center of the needle. ¶ At this position, the point of the non-threaded looper should be adjusted to centre of needle, as shown at T8 in Fig. 14, and ad- justed sidewise so that it just clears the needle.
To Adjust the Needle Guard
¶ The needle guard (K5, Fig. 15) should be set as close as possible to the needle without deflecting it. To set the needle guard in the correct position, loosen its two screws and move the needle guard forward or backward, as required, then securely tighten the two screws.
To Replace and Time Threaded Looper
¶ Turn hand wheel over until looper (Y8, Fig. 15) can be in- serted on looper rocker seat (X8, Fig. 15), then turn machine until the needle bar, after descending to its lowest point has risen so that the lower timing mark on needle bar is even with top of top needle bar bushing and the point of the threaded looper has advanced to the centre of the needle. ¶ At this position, the looper point should be adjusted to centre of needle, as shown at W8 in Fig. 15, and adjusted sidewise so that it just clears the needle.
To Replace and Adjust Right Hand Loop Retainer
¶ It is first advisable to adjust the right hand loop retainer (Z8, Figs. 15 and 17). ¶ The right hand loop retainer should be set in height so that it just clears the threaded and non-threaded loopers, or so that there is sufficient space between the top side of the looper and underside of the loop retainer for the thread being used to pass through. ¶ The loop retainer should also be adjusted sidewise so that, as the needle descends, the loop retainer just clears the needle on the side as the loop retainer is retreating as shown in Fig. 17, which shows a side and top view of the loop retainer correctly adjusted. ¶ The right hand loop retainer should be adjusted forward or back so that the needle in descending will penetrate the loop held suspended on its horn in such a position that the right hand loop retainer point does not project over the further edge of the non-threaded looper thus to prevent the point striking or dragging against the further side of the loop held upon the non-threaded looper, as shown in Fig. 18. ¶ The loop retainers (28 and A9, Fig. 18) should be set so that when they are forward in loop holding position, they will hold the loop in such a way that when the needle descends it will enter centrally in the loop.
To Replace and Adjust Left Hand Loop Retainer
¶ To replace and adjust left hand loop retainer(A9, Fig. 18), first obtain about the proper amount of bight required by the needle as instructed. ¶ This loop retainer should be set in height so that there is just sufficient space between the top side of the threaded looper and the underside of the loop retainer for the thread to pass through. It should also be adjusted side- wise so that, as the needle descends, it just clears it on the side, as shown in Fig. 16, which shows a side and top view of the left hand loop retainer correctly adjusted. ¶ The left hand loop retainer should be adjusted forward or back so that the needle in descend- ing will penetrate the loop held suspended on its horn and in such a position that the point of the left hand loop retainer will clear the thread held between the work and the eye in the extreme end of the threaded looper as the threaded looper and left hand loop retainer pass each other. ¶ It may be necessary, in order to obtain correct setting for either the left or right loop retainer, to use shims which are made in different thicknesses, viz., 250074, .005″ thick, 250449, .010″ thick, 250450, .020″ thick and 250537, .030″ thick.
To Replace and Adjust the Throat Plate
¶ When replacing the throat plate (12, Fig. 4), see that its underside just clears the loop retainers and the top set about .025″ below the top of the clamp plates. ¶ The throat plate should be adjusted sidewise so that the needle just clears the cord or range of opening in the throat plate but not so as to allow the loop retainer to rub against the rib of the throat plate.
To Remove and Replace the Looper Frame
¶ Press in the buttons(S3 and U3, Fig. 6) and at the same time draw the bed end cover (T3, Fig. 6) toward you to remove it from the machine, then turn the looper thread tension releaser(X, Fig. 3) up to clear the right hand edge of the looper frame (W, Fig. 3). ¶ See that the sewing mechanism is in stopping position with the interlocking slide (J7, Fig. 10) locked in the notch of the stop cam (H7, Fig. 10). ¶ Follow the instructions under the head “Caution”, page 60 and ratchet the machine about half way up the first side of the buttonhole, remove the link screw(L2, Fig. 3) and the three looper frame screws, replace link screw (L2) temporarily, to retain the setting of the loopers, and care- fully withdraw the looper frame(W) from the machine. To replace the looper frame (W) make sure that the machine is in the same position as referred to in the preceding paragraph with the needle bar gauge plate (R7, Fig. 12) turned towards the rear of the machine. ¶ Turn the stitch forming mechanism in the looper frame (W) so that the post for the throat plate (12, Fig. 4) is to the front, set the looper driving crank(D2, Fig. 3) with the “hole(E2, Fig. 3) in the flange of crank to the left and slightly below the horizontal position. ¶ Carefully guide the rear edge of the chip guard(Q. Fig. 3) between the underside of the lower cutting lever and the top face of the feed wheel, and as the looper frame(W) is gently pushed to the rear, guide it so that its position pins enter the two pin holes and so the fork end of the loop retainer slide(B2, Fig. 3) enters the space between the two adjusting nuts (A2 and C2, Fig. 3) which are locked in posi- tion on the loop retainer driving bar (8, Fig. 3). ¶ At the same time slightly turn the looper driving crank (D2, Fig. 3) back and forth until the driving rollers on the forward end of the bed shaft enter the intermittent wheel which is attached to the rear side of the looper frame (W) and at the same time gently rotate the looper frame back and forth a slight amount so that the rotating gear on looper bracket will go into proper mesh with the lower stitch rotating sector and bring the looper mechanism in align- ment with the needle bar. Push the looper frame snug against its seat on the machine, then again remove the link screw (L2, Fig. 3) and replace the three clamping screws and the link screw (L2). (Always make sure the looper frame (W) is snug and square against its seat before tightening the three screws.) ¶ Then ratchet the machine to starting position as instructed on page 60.
Alignment of the Needle and Looper Frame
¶ The looper frame(W, Fig. 3) and the needle are aligned be- fore the machine is shipped so that the looper mechanism and the needle, at all points of rotation, are in perfect alignment; that is, the looper frame seat on the frame itself and the machine bed are filed and scraped to adjust the looper mechanism just the right amount in the direction of longitudinal travel and revolved on its seat to adjust it at right angles to the travel of the machine, so that when the machine is in the position where the needle is alongside of either of the loopers or the loop retainers, there will be no change in their relative position during this rotation. ¶ When the looper frame is so located, it is doweled in this position and with ordinary care in the handling of the machine, this posi- tion should be maintained. ¶ For this reason the looper frame should always be replaced upon its own machine according to the identification number. If a new looper frame should be fitted to the bed of the machine, it will be necessary that the looper frame be fitted very carefully and in a like manner. ¶ Should the bed shaft, the loop retainer cam or the looper driving crank be replaced, retiming of the looper mechanism will be necessary; but before this can be correctly done a check should be made as to the alignment of the needle and the looper frame, during the rotation of the looper mechanism and needle bar. ¶ The straightness of the needle bar should be ascertained and corrected if necessary. Remove the upper rear hinge screw for the stitch rotating connection so that the needle mechanism can be manually rotated. ¶ Then select a new needle and inspect the trueness of its point by rolling it on its shank on a flat surface. ¶ Remove the needle holder and clean off any burrs or dirt which would tip the needle holder on its seat, then replace the needle. holder in position, as shown at N9, Fig. 12 (see description “To Align the Needle”) and insert the inspected needle. ¶ Now firmly hold a piece of paper under the point of the needle and make a slight impression with the needle point, then revolve the needle bar and note whether the point revolves without describing a circle. ¶ Should the needle point describe a circle, it will indicate that either the needle is still bent or that the seat of the needle holder is throwing the needle point. ¶ This incorrect condition should be thoroughly corrected as the needle point will be the foundation upon which the looper mechanism will be aligned and timed. After correcting the alignment of the needle point, assemble the upper rotating sector so that when the machine is on the last side of the buttonhole, the needle bar gauge plate (R7, Fig. 12) is exactly positioned squarely to the front and the screw hole on the rear end of the upper stitch rotating con- nection is directly over the hole on the end of the upper stitch rotating lever, then assemble the hinge screw. ¶ Note that the identification number on the looper bracket frame (W, Fig. 3) agrees with the number on the front edge of the machine bed, then turn the hand wheel(D, Fig. 2) until the needle moves down alongside of the threaded looper and adjust so that it just touches the blade of the needle. ¶ Ratchet the machine to the eye end of the buttonhole and note the relation between the needle and side of the threaded looper as they both revolve. ¶ The rela- tive position of each should be maintained during the rotation but should they crowd together or gap open, it will indicate that the looper bracket frame is not correctly seated upon the machine. ¶ This condition should be corrected by removing all burrs and dirt from the seats and the dowel pin holes of the looper bracket frame and the machine bed until no further crawl is noted be- tween the threaded looper and the needle. ¶ As the machine is on either the first or last side of the buttonhole a greater per- centage of time, the looper frame position is vital to the loopers longitudinally and to the loop retainers laterally.
See Form 1875w, instructions for setting up machines on power tables with driving equipments.
Speed
The maximum speeds recommended for the shafts in Machines 99w130 to 99w132 are as follows: Buttonhole Cutting Shaft – 185 to 200 revolutions per minute. Stop Motion Shaft – 750 to 800 revolutions per minute. (This will drive the arm shaft at a speed of from 1500 to 1600 revolu- tions per minute.)
The table shaft pulley sent out with the machine for driving the sewing mechanism and buttonhole cutting mechanism is made in various sizes, as listed below, for different speeds of table shafts. Care must therefore be taken to see that the table shaft pulley used is of the correct size to drive the stop motion shaft (Fig. 10) at a speed of 750 to 800 revolutions per minute and the buttonhole cutting shaft (K4, Fig. 8) at a speed of 185 to 200 revolutions per minute. The correct speed of the stop motion shaft should be ascertained by placing a speed indicator at the gear end of the rapid feed crank shaft. The speed of the rapid feed crank shaft should be about 1250 to 1290 revolutions per minute. See Fig. 10.
Shaft Pulleys
Safety Lock
To prevent accidental starting of the machine when threading, oiling or making adjustments, the machine can be locked out of operation by pushing the safety lock (T4, Fig. 8) under the start- ing rod (S4, Fig. 8), thus holding up the starting rod so that it cannot be depressed to start the machine. When finished thread- ing, oiling or making adjustments, it will be necessary to unlock the machine by swinging the safety lock forward from under the starting rod, before the machine can be started in operation.
Needles
Needles for Machines 99w130 to 99w132 are of the following Class and Variety Nos.:
Class & Variety
Description
Style of Point
Sizes
142 x 1
for Cloth
Round
13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19
142 x 5
for Cloth
Round
10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21
142 x 6
for Khaki
Spear Wedge
17, 19
142 x 8
for Leather
Reverse Spear
17, 18, 19
¶ The size of the needle to be used should be determined by the size of the thread which must pass freely through the eye of the needle. The successful use of the machine will be interfered with if rough or uneven thread is used, or if it passes with difficulty through the eye of the needle. ¶ Orders for needles must specify the quantity required, the size, also the class and variety numbers separated by the letter x.
The following is an example of an intelligible order: “50 No. 17, 142×1 Needles,” if for Cloth. “50 No. 17, 142×5 Needles,” if for Cloth. “50 No. 17, 142×6 Needles,” if for Khaki. “50 No. 17, 142×8 Needles,” if for Leather.
¶ The best stitching results will be obtained in using the needles furnished by the Singer Sewing Machine Company.
To Determine the Proper Materials to Use forButtonholes which are Cut Before Sewing
¶ Stitch a buttonhole in the material to be tested, using the same lining and materials in the same layers and positions that they will occupy in a garment. Turn the slit of the buttonhole outward and grasp the purl between the thumb nail and the fore- finger and force the purl with the thumb nail toward the edge of the buttonhole. Repeat this several times, increasing the strain, and if the stitches (or purl) give or slide toward the edge of the slit it indicates that the material is not suitable for buttonholes which are cut before sewing. The thicker the material is, the wider the bight should be in the depth stitch from the button- hole slit.
Thread and Cord
¶ Either right or left twist thread may be used in the needle and looper. When stitching buttonholes with silk thread, a heavier thread should be used in the looper than in the needle, for example: use B silk in the looper with A silk in the needle. ¶ When stitching buttonholes with cotton thread, regular but- tonhole thread is recommended. Harder finish thread should always be used in the looper than in the needle. This will facili- tate the formation of perfect stitches in the buttonhole. ¶ For the cord, medium size buttonhole cord will give the best results.
¶ Machine 99w131 ( medium travel ) has a capacity to sew 5/8″ to 1-1/8″ and cuts straight end buttonholes or eyelet-end buttonholes with large or medium eye, without bar 5/8″ to 1-3/32″ and with bar 5/8” to 1″, the bar being adjustable from 1/8″ to 3/8″ for ” to 3/4″ button- holes, from 1/8″ to 1/4″ for 7/8″ buttonhole and with 1/8″ bar for 1″ buttonhole. for coats, vests, trousers, etc.¶ The machine is intended for making buttonholes in closely woven fabrics, the buttonhole being automatically cut before stitching. Makes buttonholes with double chain stitch (Singer Buttonhole Stitch) and lays a reinforcing cord under the edge of the flat purl. ¶ A change in length and shape is made by substituting a quick detachable Pattern Wheel, also Cutting Block and Knife. ¶ Unless otherwise ordered, fittings on this machine will make without bar 1 inch eyelet-end buttonhole with large size eye and inch straight buttonhole with stitching suspended at eye end. ¶ Extra Pattern Wheels, Cutting Blocks and Knives, as listed below and on the following page, can be furnished for use on this variety of machine, for which additional charge will be made.
℔ Equipments for making eyelet-end buttonholes with medium size eye, without bar:
℔ Equipments for making eyelet-end buttonholes with large size eye, without bar:
℔ Equipments for making straight buttonholes :
℔ Equipments for making straight buttonholes with or without rapid feed at eye end or eyelet-end with large size eye as desired.
*This size and style of buttonhole is made with combination pattern wheel, the cutting block and knife must be used for the particular style of buttonhole stitched. † See page 59.
℔ Equipments for making eyelet-end buttonholes with medium size eye, with adjustable taper bar:
℔ Equipments for making eyelet-end buttonholes with large size eye, with adjustable taper bar:
Note: ¶ Straight buttonholes with taper bar can be made with pattern wheels Nos. 256739 to and including 256745 by removing disengaging block 253444 and changing cutting block and knife.
