タグ: SINGER

INSTRUCTIONS FOR ADJUSTERS AND MACHINISTS

Needle Vibrating Mechanism

¶ The needle vibrating mechanism is actuated by means of a cam on the upright shaft. When this shaft starts to rotate, the cam moves the connecting rod ^{(F, Fig. 2)} back and forth, causing it to rock the bell crank ^{(J, Fig. 2)} which in turn moves the link ^{(K, Fig. 2)} up and down, carrying with it the reciprocating rod ^{(M, Fig. 2)} which has the vibrating ring ^{(H, Figs. 2 and 12)} attached to its lower end. ¶ As the vibrating ring moves up and down, it swings the needle vibrating switch ^{(W7, Fig. 13)} side- ways, causing the roller ^{(V7, Fig. 13)} to be switched from one groove to the other in the gauge plate ^{(R7, Fig. 13)}. The roller ^(V7) is mounted upon the needle bight adjusting lever ^{(T7, Fig. 13)} which in turn is mounted on the bridge of the needle bar so that when the roller is switched in the grooves of the gauge plate ^(R7), the needle is vibrated from side to side.

To Align the Needle

¶ To ascertain the alignment of the needle, loosen the needle holder clamping screws ^{(P7, Fig. 12)} and slide the needle holder so that the left hand edge is flush with the corresponding edge of the needle holder slide, as shown at N9 in Fig. 12, and tighten the screws. ¶ Now clamp a piece of light card under the clamp checks, raise the work clamp carrier side throw lever lock pin ^{(B6, Fig. 9)} up and out of the pattern wheel ^{(U5, Fig. 9)} and then with wrench on pattern wheel clamping nut ^{(S5, Fig. 9)}, turn the machine up the first side of buttonhole, at the same time making a row of light punctures in the card with the needle on the slit or central vibration. ¶ Continue up and around the eye. ¶ The needle point, while coming down the last side of the button- hole, should exactly enter the card in the first line of punctures. If the two lines do not coincide, it will be necessary to adjust the gauge plate ^{(R7, Fig. 13)} to the right or left as may be required. ¶ While the machine is still on the last side of the buttonhole with the gauge plate ^(R7) towards you, move the needle vibrat- ing ring ^{(H, Fig. 12)} to its lowest point, then loosen the two screws ^{(S7 and B8, Fig. 13)} and turn the adjusting screw ^{(07, Fig. 12)} to bring the two lines of needle punctures in line with each other, then tighten the two screws ^{(S7 and B8)}. ¶ Turn the machine by hand and note the movement of the roller ^{(V7, Fig. 13)} as it passes from the slot of the gauge plate ^(R7) into the needle vibrating switch ^{(W7, Fig. 13)} and then from the switch ^(W7) back into the second slot of the gauge plate ^(R7). ¶ Should the roller drag upon the side wall of the gauge plate or switch, it will be necessary to change the length of the rod ^{(F, Fig. 2)}. ¶ After making adjustments of the rod ^(F), the lock nuts ^{(E and G, Fig. 2)} should be tightened. ¶ After making the above adjustments, turn the machine with the wrench on the pattern wheel clamping nut ^{(S5, Fig. 9)} to the starting position as referred to under “Caution” on page 60.

To Regulate the Cutting Space

¶ Having followed the instruction for aligning the needle, again clamp a piece of light card under the clamp checks, raise the work clamp carrier side throw lever lock pin^{(B6, Fig. 9)} up and out of the pattern wheel ^{(U5, Fig. 9)} and then with wrench on pattern wheel clamping nut ^{(S5, Fig. 9)}, turn the machine up the first side of the buttonhole, at the same time making a row of light punctures in the card with the needle on the slit or central vibration. ¶ While on the first side of the buttonhole, loosen the needle holder clamping screws ^{(P7, Fig. 12)} and slightly adjust the needle holder to the left. ¶ The needle, while coming down the last side of the buttonhole, should enter the card about .006 inch to the right of the first line of punctures. ¶ This distance may have to be changed according to the thickness and textures of the material being sewn, as the heavier grades of materials require more cutting space than the lighter fabrics and, therefore, a greater distance between the two parallel lines of needle punctures may be required.

To Regulate the Width of Bight.

¶ The width of bight or stitch is regulated by the screw ^{(U7, Fig. 13)}. To increase the width of bight or stitch, loosen the screw ^(U7) and move it upwardly. To decrease the width of bight, loosen the screw ^(U7) and move it downwardly. ¶ When changing the width of bight or lateral throw of the needle, it will be necessary to adjust the loop retainer ^{(A9, Fig. 15)} and the non-threaded looper ^{(V8, Fig. 14)}, as instructed on pages TO REPLACE AND TIME NON-THREADED LOOPER and LOOP RETAINERS.

INDEX

To Remove the Work Clamp Plates

¶ When it is desired to remove the work clamp plates ^{(O3 and W3, Fig. 6)} from the machine, for the purpose of making adjustments, this can be done as follows: ¶ Unhook the two springs ^{(K3 and Z3, Fig. 6)} on the work clamp plates, then swing each plate outward at right angle to the machine and lift the plates from the machine.

To Regulate the Tensions

¶ The tension on the needle thread is regulated by the thumb nut ^{(B, Fig. 2)} at the right of the tension discs at the top of the machine. ¶ To increase the tension, turn this thumb nut over from you. To decrease the tension, turn this thumb nut over toward you. ¶ The tension on the needle thread should be sufficiently heavy to set the purl of the buttonhole on the underside of the work. ¶ The tension on the looper thread is regulated by the thumb nut ^{(Y, Fig. 3)} at the front of the tension discs inside the front of the bed of the machine. ¶ To increase the tension, turn this thumb nut over to the right. ¶ To decrease the tension, turn this thumb nut over to the left. ¶ The tension on the looper thread should be sufficient to balance the tension of the needle thread and give the desired character to the formation of the stitch. ¶ The tension on the cord is regulated by the thumb nut ^{(T, Fig. 3)}. ¶ To increase the tension, turn this thumb nut over from you. ¶ To decrease the tension, turn this thumb nut over toward you. ¶ The tension on the cord should be light.

To Change the Style and Length of Buttonhole

¶ When it is desired to make a different style and length of buttonhole it will be necessary to change the pattern wheel ^{(U5, Fig. 9)}, buttonhole cutting block ^{(T2, Fig. 5)} and the cutting knife ^{(D3, Fig. 5)}. ¶ Some pattern wheels produce two styles of buttonholes as shown in the lists on pages 5 to 10 in- clusive, in which cases the following adjustment is necessary to change from one style of buttonhole to the other.

¶ To Adjust Machines 99w130 and 99w131 for making Eyelet- end Buttonholes (with large size eye) without a Bar. ¶ Having placed the desired pattern wheel in the machine, see that the locking pin ^{(B6, Fig. 9)} rests on the straight ledge of the work clamp side throw lever as shown in Fig. 9, then place the correct buttonhole cutting block and knife in the machine. (See list of cutting blocks and knives given on pages 5 to 8 inclusive.)

¶ To Adjust Machines 99w130 and 99w131 for making Eyelet- end Buttonholes (with medium size eye) with a Taper Bar or without a Bar, also Straight Buttonholes. ¶ Having placed the desired pattern wheel in the machine, see that the locking pin ^{(B6, Fig. 9)} rests in the vertical slot ^{(N5, Fig. 9)} of the work clamp side throw lever, then place the correct buttonhole cutting block and knife in the machine. (See list of cutting blocks and knives given on pages 5 to 8 inclusive.)

¶ To Remove the Pattern Wheel, draw the lever ^{(A6, Fig. 9)} toward you so as to swing the stop lever operating plate ^{(Z5, Fig. 9)} back out of range of the pattern wheel. ¶ Raise the locking pin ^{(B6, Fig. 9)} out of the vertical slot ^{(N5, Fig. 9)} and swing it backward so that it rests on the straight ledge, then remove the nut ^{(S5, Fig. 9)} and withdraw the pattern wheel.

¶ To Replace the Pattern Wheel, push it on the shaft as far as it will go, having the position stud ^{(T5, Fig. 9)} enter the small hole in the pattern wheel, then fasten it firmly in position with the nut ^{(S5, Fig. 9)}.

¶ To Adjust Machine 99w132 for making Eyelet-end Button- holes with a Taper Bar or without a Bar. ¶ Having placed the desired pattern wheel in the machine, see that the locking pin ^{(B6, Fig. 9)} rests in the vertical slot ^{(N5, Fig. 9)} of the work clamp side throw lever, then place the correct buttonhole cutting block and knife in the machine. (See list of cutting blocks and knives given on pages 9 to 11.)

¶ To Adjust Machine 99w132 for making Straight Buttonholes. ¶ Having placed the desired pattern wheel in the machine, see that the locking pin ^(B6) rests on the straight ledge of the work clamp side throw lever as shown in Fig. 9, then place the correct buttonhole cutting block and knife in the machine. (See list of cutting blocks and knives given on pages 9 to 11.)

To Change the Length of Eyelet-end and Straight Buttonholes and Length of Taper Bar

¶ Different lengths of sewing for eyelet-end or straight button- holes and different lengths of bars for taper bar buttonholes can be produced with pattern wheels, as listed on pages 5 to 10, by adjustments as follows: ¶ Remove the pattern wheel from the machine and take out the two screws which fasten the two pattern wheel segments to the pattern wheel. It will be noticed that there are several radial lines on the pattern wheel which are used as a guide for setting the segments in the required position. ¶ To make the longest bar, move the two segments outwardly until their ends register with the lines which are farthest from the elongated screw hole in the pattern wheel ring. ¶ To make the shortest bar, move the segments inwardly until their ends register with the lines which are nearest to the elongated screw hole in the pattern wheel ring. ¶ For inter- mediate lengths of bars, adjust the segments to the correspond- ing intermediate lines. ¶ When the segments are set in the desired position, securely tighten their fastening screws. ¶ When the segments are set to make the longest bar, the rapid feed stopping tripping point, which is nearest to the dogging hole on the inside of the pattern wheel, must be set in the screw hole nearest to the other tripping point, and for the shortest bar, it must be set in the screw hole farthest from the other tripping point. ¶ For intermediate lengths of bars, use the intermediate screw holes. This tripping point must always be so adjusted that it trips the rapid feed stop just as the sewing starting segment has actuated the stitching mechanism. ¶ If it is set too early, the machine will stop because the rapid feed will cease before the sewing feed begins. If it is set too late, the space between the first two or three stitches will be too great because the rapid feed, which is faster than the sewing feed, will continue after the sewing has commenced.

To Change the Number of Stitches in the Buttonhole

¶ The number of stitches in the buttonhole is controlled by the stitch regulating gear ^{(Y7, Fig. 11)} in the left side of the machine. ¶ When it is desired to change the number of stitches in the button- hole it will only be necessary to change the stitch regulating gear. ¶ To remove this gear, loosen the screw ^{(A8, Fig. 11)} in the slotted lever and pull the lever toward you, then remove the nut ^{(X7, Fig. 11)} which is above the stitch regulating gear ^{(Y7, Fig.11)} and lift off the gear with the stitch regulating gear holder. ¶ The stitch regulating gears are listed below:Having selected the gear desired, place it in position and firmly fasten it with nut ^{(X7, Fig. 11)}. ¶ Then advance the pattern wheel shaft by means of wrench a slight amount and at the same time push on the end of feed adjusting gear bracket until the adjusting gear ^{(Z7, Fig. 11)} drops into mesh with the stitch regulating gear. After the gears have been correctly set, tighten the screw ^{(A8, Fig. 11)}. ¶ When turning the pattern wheel shaft with the wrench, care should be taken that it is turned only sufficiently far to mesh the first tooth, thus avoiding moving the machine out of cutting position.

Stitch Regulating Gears

To Oil the Machine

¶ To ensure easy running and prevent unnecessary wear to the machine, oil should be regularly applied at least once each day to all oil holes and all parts which are in movable contact. ¶ Oil should be applied to the two oil holes ^{(C and N, Fig. 2)} for the arm shaft bearings located on the top of the front and rear of the arm; also to the oil hole ^{(P9, Fig. 2)} in the top end of the needle thread take-up shaft for the shaft bearing. The take- up lever and cam should be oiled through the left side of the take- up bracket at D8, Fig. 36. ¶ The needle vibrating lever and the upper bearing for the vertical shaft should be oiled through the opening ^{(L8, Fig. 36)} at the upper left rear end of the arm. ¶ All connections of the upper stitch rotating mechanism should have oil applied to all movable parts. ¶ Oil should be applied to the needle vibrating connections on the right side of the arm and all parts connected to this mechanism located on the lower end of the needle bar; also applied through the oil hole ^{(L, Fig. 2)} in the arm face plate to the needle bar and its connections. ¶ At the back end of the machine, oil should be applied through the opening ^{(F6, Fig. 9)} to the roller way of the cutter carrier cam and its connection, to the cutting lever cam seat, to the buttonhole cutting lever cams and to the lower bearing for the vertical shaft. ¶ Oil should be applied to the oil tube ^{(M7, Fig. 10)} for the bed shaft bushing, to the oil tube ^{(C6, Fig. 9)} for the rapid feed crank shaft rear bearing and to the oil hole ^{(G7, Fig. 10)} in the end of the rapid feed intermediate gear stud. ¶ Oil should be applied to the two oil holes ^{(N7, Fig. 10)} in the stop lever bracket as well as to the stop cam ^{(H7, Fig. 10)} and all sliding surfaces of the interlocking slide ^{(J7, Fig. 10)} located at rear end of the bed. ¶ Through the opening ^{(P5, Fig. 9)} in the left hand side of the bed, oil should be applied to the feed wheel cam paths, to the lower stitch rotation connections, to the hinge stud for the lower sector and to the oil holes for the bearings located on the left edge of the bed for the pattern wheel shaft and slide bar. ¶ Oil should be applied to the oil pad for the rapid feed starting pawl ^{(K6, Fig. 9)} located immediately above the pawl inside the left edge of the bed and to all movable parts of the rapid feed tripping mechanism located within the bed. ¶ The cam groove of the pattern wheel ^{(U5, Fig. 9)} and the operating surface of the pattern wheel ring ^{(R5, Fig. 9)} should be oiled; also the connections from it to the stop lever and to the side throw lever. ¶ Oil should be applied to the oil tube ^{(05, Fig. 9)} for the front bed shaft bearing. ¶ After removing the bed end cover ^{(T3, Fig. 6)} oil should be applied to all movable parts of the looper mechanism, and to the slide block ^{(P2, Fig. 3)} on the forward end of the side throw lever. ¶ Oil should be applied to the movable parts on the work plates ^{(03 and W3, Fig. 6)}; that is, to the clamp arm cams, shafts and hinge blocks; also to the two oil holes ^{(Q3 and V3, Fig. 6)} in the forward end of each plate which carry oil to the base plate slide rod ^{(Q2, Fig. 3)}. ¶ Swing each work plate ^{(03 and W3, Fig. 6)} out and apply oil to the oil hole in the left side of the base plate immediately above oil hole ^{(S2, Fig. 38)} for the side throw lever shaft; also apply oil to the looper mechanism, to the feed wheel cam paths, to the left and right clamp carrier slides and to the oil hole ^{(U2, Fig. 5)} for the feed wheel axis stud located beneath the cutting levers in the cutting lever bracket. ¶ Insert the tip of the oil can into the forward right hand open- ing ^{(R, Figs. 3 and 8)} in side of the bed and apply oil to the forward bearing ^{(Z, Fig. 3)} of the rapid feed crank shaft and apply oil to the oil holes for the pattern wheel shaft and slide bar located on the lower edge of this opening. ¶ Oil should be applied to the hinge stud ^{(L3, Fig. 3)} for the clamp closing lever ^{(D5, Fig. 8)}, to the engaging stud ^{(F4, Fig. 8)} and latches connected to the operation of this mechanism as well as to all movable parts connected with the starting mechanism. ¶ Oil should be applied to the two oil holes for the buttonhole cutting shaft, to the oil cup in the hub of the cutting shaft pulley ^{(J4, Fig. 8)}, to the oil hole ^{(H4, Fig. 8)} in the support for the right hand end of cutting shaft and to the hole in the head of the hand crank cap screw ^{(K4, Fig. 8)} on the right end of the cutting shaft. ¶ It is extremely important that the oiling of the machine be carried out diligently each day, using SINGER “Oil for High Speed Sewing Machines (Cloth and Leather)” for general use or “Stainless Oil for High Speed Sewing Machines” where a stain- less oil is desired. ¶ This will be an investment that will yield exceptional returns as it will reduce the demand for service as well as reduce the cost of upkeep and will greatly increase the life of the machine.

INDEX

¶ Diagram, Fig. 7, shows order of operation of mechanism in Machines 99w130 to 99w132 during the cutting and stitching of a buttonhole from start to finish.

A -Work Clamps are closed by Clamp Closing Lever
B -Buttonhole Cutter is tripped by Clamp Closing Lever
C -Buttonhole is cut by Buttonhole Cutting Shaft
D -Buttonhole is spread by Buttonhole Cutting Shaft
E -Rapid Feed is started by Buttonhole Cutting Shaft
F -Sewing is started by Pattern Wheel Ring
G -Rapid Feed is stopped by Pattern Wheel
X -Buttonhole is stitched (indicated by solid line)
H -Sewing is stopped by Pattern Wheel Ring
I -Rapid Feed is started by Stop Motion
J -Work Clamps are opened and Spread is released by Trip Point on Work Plates
K -Rapid Feed is stopped by Pattern Wheel
L -Starting and stopping point Dotted line represents rapid feed

¶ The operator should sit a little to the left of the center of the front of the machine so that the opening in the work clamps can be fully seen. This position will be found to be the most con- venient for the operator for the reason that the work is moved from left to right in the machine when passing from one button- hole to another, and also because the finger starting lever is located above the left work clamp plate. ¶ Unlock the machine by pushing the safety lock ^{(T4, Fig. 8)} inwardly. Place the work in position in the machine so that the portion in which it is desired to make the buttonhole is directly under the opening in the work clamps. ¶ Then set the two work position gauges ^{(N3 and X3, Fig. 6)} against the edge of the work and fasten them in position. ¶ Hold the work firmly in position with the hands and at the same time press down on the finger starting lever ^{(Y3, Fig. 6)}. This will trip the lever ^{(C4, Fig. 8)} out of the locking notch in clamp closing stud ^{(F4, Fig. 8)}. ¶ The plunger will then be held out of engagement with the cam path in the pulley ^{(J4, Fig. 8)} by latch ^{(D4, Fig. 8)} holding the locking notch in the stud ^{(F4, Fig. 8)} until the cam path is in the correct position to receive the stud, at which time the tripping cam block on the inside face of pulley ^(J4) will trip the lever ^{(E4, Fig. 8)}, lifting the latch ^(D4) and allowing the stud ^(F4) to engage the cam path in pulley ^(J4), causing the clamp closing lever ^{(D5, Fig. 8)} to be depressed and the work clamps to be lowered upon the work. ¶ The stud ^{(F4, Fig. 8)} is forced inwardly, by the stud disengaging cam block mounted in the cam path of the pulley ^{(J4, Fig. 8)}, under the stud lock plate ^{(A4, Fig. 8)} into locking position and held by the lever ^{(C4, Fig. 8)} in the locking notch. ¶ As the clamp closing lever returns to its starting position, the starting lever trip ^{(U4, Fig. 10)} is forced against the starting lever arm ^{(H5, Fig. 10)}, which in turn actuates the buttonhole cutting starting lever ^{(B5, Fig. 8)}, causing the latch ^{(X4, Fig. 8)} in the buttonhole cutting wheel to engage the loose buttonhole cutting pulley. ¶ As the buttonhole cutting wheel ^{(G4, Fig. 8)} is fastened in a rigid position on the buttonhole cutting shaft ^{(K4,Fig. 8)}, the shaft is rotated when the wheel and loose pulley are locked together by the latch ^{(X4, Fig. 8)}. When the button- hole cutting shaft starts to rotate, the buttonhole cutting levers are moved into action by the operating cams on the buttonhole cutting shaft, and the cutting block and knife are carried forward to cut the buttonhole. ¶ After the buttonhole cutter has cut the buttonhole, the safety latch ^{(W9, Fig. 10)} is moved beneath the starting lever trip (U4, Fig. 10) and holds it out of engagement with the starting lever arm ^{(H5, Fig. 10)}. ¶ As the cutting levers return to their starting position, the spreading lever ^{(Q4, Figs. 6 and 8)} is pushed forward against the lever ^{(R4, Figs. 6 and 8)}, thus spreading the work clamps and stretching the fabric taut under the needle. ¶ During the last part of the rotation of the cut- ting shaft, the rapid feed starting lever ^{(C5, Fig. 8)} is operated, causing the rapid feed to move the work clamp plates with the work to a stitching position, after which the latch ^{(X4, Fig. 8)} in the buttonhole cutting wheel is withdrawn from the loose but- tonhole cutting pulley, releasing the wheel from the pulley and stopping the rotation of the buttonhole cutting shaft. (¶ At the same time, the cutting lock cam ^{(W5, Fig. 8)} actuates the rock shaft lever ^{(V4, Fig. 10)}, forcing the cutting lock ^{(Q5, Fig. 10)} beneath the starting lever trip ^{(U4, Fig. 10)}, thus locking the cutting mechanism so that it cannot operate while the buttonhole is being stitched.)

¶ When the work clamp plates are brought to the stitching position, the rapid feed is disengaged by the tripping point ^{(V5, Fig. 9)} on the inner side of the pattern wheel ^{(U5, Fig. 9)} com- ing into contact with the latch ^{(W5, Fig. 9)}, and the stitching mechanism is started in operation by the action of the stop lever operating plate ^{(Z5, Fig. 9)} riding up the incline ^{(Y5, Fig. 9)} on the pattern wheel ring, causing the stop lever ^{(D6, Fig. 9)} to swing back out of engagement with the stop cam on the sewing pulley. ¶ The machine then stitches the buttonhole and at the completion of the stitching, the stop lever operating plate ^{(Z5, Fig. 9)} drops off at the square shoulder ^{(Q5, Fig. 9)} on the pattern wheel ring, causing the stop lever to swing in, ready to lock in the stop cam on the sewing pulley. ¶ As the interlocking slide ^{(J7, Fig. 10)} is raised by the action of the stop cam ^{(H7, Fig. 10)}, the point of the latch ^{(K7, Fig. 10)} is lowered fully f inch below the end of the second rapid feed starting lever ^{(L7, Fig. 10)}. As the interlocking slide ^{(J7, Fig. 10)} drops into the notch of the stop cam ^{(H7, Fig. 10)}, it raises the latch ^{(K7, Fig. 10)} which in turn raises the second rapid feed starting lever ^{(L7, Fig. 10)} as it comes into contact with it, thereby starting the rapid feeding mechanism in operation to move the clamp plates back to a starting position for the next buttonhole.

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LONG TRAVEL MACHINE

¶ Machine 99w130 ( long travel ) has a capacity to sew 5/8″ to 1-5/8″ and cuts straight end buttonholes or eyelet-end buttonholes with large or medium eye without bar 5/8″ to 1-19/32″ and with bar 1/4″ to 1/8″, the bar being adjustable from 1/8″ to 3/8″ for 5/8″ to 1-1/4″ buttonholes, from1/8″ to 1/4″ for 1-3/8″ buttonhole and with 1/8″ bar for 1-1/4″ buttonhole. ¶ For coats, vests, trousers and clothing generally. ¶ The machine is intended for making buttonholes in closely woven fabrics, the buttonhole being automatically cut before stitching. ¶ Makes buttonholes with double chain stitch (Singer Buttonhole Stitch) and lays a reinforcing cord under the edge of the flat purl. ¶ A change in length and shape is made by substituting a quick detachable Pattern Wheel, also Cutting Block and Knife. ¶ Unless otherwise ordered, this machine will be fitted to make a 1 inch eyelet-end buttonhole with large size eye, without bar. ¶ Extra Pattern Wheels, Cutting Blocks and Knives, as listed below and on the following page, can be furnished for use on this variety of machine, for which additional charge will be made.

℔ Equipments for making eyelet-end buttonholes with medium size eye, without bar:

℔ Equipments for making eyelet-end buttonholes with large size eye, without bar:

℔ LONG TRAVEL MACHINE—Continued Equipments for making straight buttonholes :

℔ Equipments for making eyelet-end buttonholes with medium size eye, with adjustable taper bar:

℔ Equipments for making eyelet-end buttonholes with large size eye, with adjustable taper bar:

Note: ¶ Straight buttonholes with taper bar can be made with pattern wheels Nos. 256675 to and including 256689 by removing disengaging block 253444 and changing cutting block and knife. ¶ When preferred, the eyelet-end buttonholes produced on Machines 99w130 to 99w132 can have a square bar made on Machine 68-38.

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